Ushi-what? Ushiwakamaru!

The name of this basement sushi bar refers to a famous samurai, but the only knives wielded here are those of the expert sushi chefs.

Although Ushiwakamaru shares the casual atmosphere of other Houston Street restaurants, its sushi, and its prices, are serious. My sushi special was $34.50, and the chef's choice was $70 and up. And it seems that although both soup and salad were once served with an entrée, one must now choose between them. Fortunately, the food is of very high quality, and the sushi chefs are happy to speak about it. Last night, I overheard one of them educating a customer about the different grades of toro.

I began the meal with a bowl of scalliony miso soup and the chawan mushi (steamed egg custard) appetizer. The latter hid all kinds of tasty treasures (shrimp, whitefish and gingko nuts).

Soon afterwards, I was served a tray of seven perfect pieces of sushi (shrimp, snapper, two kinds of yellowtail and tuna, and clam). Although I enjoyed every bite, I wondered, was that all? I was relieved when the waitress carried another tray to my table. On this second tray were three pieces of tuna-scallion maki, creamy, nutty uni (perhaps the highlight of the evening), mirin-sweetened salmon roe, eel, and sweet egg cake stamped with Ushiwakamaru's logo.

The dessert menu included mochi, grapefruit jelly, ice cream and sweet bean soup; I abstained. (However, I later found myself buying a bag of chocolate-chip cookies at Whole Foods.)

Ushiwakamaru: 136 West Houston St., (212) 228-4181.